The smallest coin of currency in Benin is the 5 FCFA coin (the equivalent of roughly 1 cent CAD). The bills start at 1000 FCFA and the largest bill is 10000 FCFA (the equivalent of roughly 20 dollars CAD). The fact that the largest bill in production is equivalent to our $20 bill speaks volumes about how much cheaper the cost of living is in Benin. In general, the trend is that everything except electronics is cheaper here than you would find in Canada. To illustrate this point: 700 FCFA is how much it costs to buy about 14 fresh pineapples at the local market, or scan one page of a document at the local cyber.
What does all of this mean for me, someone used to a whole different currency? I probably hadn’t eaten 14 pineapples total in my life before coming here, and I’ve never paid anything to use a scanner. Well first and foremost, the large numbers, and to a greater extent the fixed mindset of 100 cents in a dollar has led me to be stingier with my money here. I treat the 100 FCFA coin as if it had the worth of a dollar (I think that is how the locals treat it as well, at least from what my friend Stephen and I have deduced).
Now it might seem ironic, and downright cheap that I am shying from spending money here, especially given the economic situation of Benin and its people. However, I don’t know if I would be so protective of my money if it weren’t trying to be scammed from me every second! I take the same route to the orphanage every day and I still have taxi drivers trying to charge me double the normal price. As soon as you’re recognized as white, the price for everything (especially any souvenirs, etc) is hiked up about 4-5x higher than it normally is. Even though I enjoy bargaining, knowing that you’ll never get it down to the price a local would pay gets frustrating after a while.
The concept of change here is also very foreign. I’ve waited 10 minutes for change for a 2000 FCFA bill only to be told that they don’t have any, and that was at a bar and not a street vendor. I’m thoroughly convinced that there are more 100 FCFA coins in circulation than 50, 25, and 5 FCFA coins combined. Even in the rare event that they do have change, if the amount they owe you is reasonable (less than 200 FCFA), they will just pretend they don’t have any. You can ask a driver how much it costs to go somewhere, and they will often just avoid the question and request a ridiculously high amount after they drop you off. After a while, this constantly having to be on your guard really gets to you and just becomes second nature! Sometimes I lose myself in arguments about such small amounts of money that when I take a step back and think about what I’m actually arguing over in terms of Canadian money, I feel embarrassed. Of course not everyone is always trying to cheat me out of my money, but it happens often enough.
The concept of change here is also very foreign. I’ve waited 10 minutes for change for a 2000 FCFA bill only to be told that they don’t have any, and that was at a bar and not a street vendor. I’m thoroughly convinced that there are more 100 FCFA coins in circulation than 50, 25, and 5 FCFA coins combined. Even in the rare event that they do have change, if the amount they owe you is reasonable (less than 200 FCFA), they will just pretend they don’t have any. You can ask a driver how much it costs to go somewhere, and they will often just avoid the question and request a ridiculously high amount after they drop you off. After a while, this constantly having to be on your guard really gets to you and just becomes second nature! Sometimes I lose myself in arguments about such small amounts of money that when I take a step back and think about what I’m actually arguing over in terms of Canadian money, I feel embarrassed. Of course not everyone is always trying to cheat me out of my money, but it happens often enough.
It is kinda pleasant seeing price labels and stuff occasionally at the supermarket. I’m sure when I get back to Canada, I will appreciate knowing that I’m charged the same price for a pastry at Tim Hortons as the customer before me a lot more than I have in the past. Here in Benin, you can forget about paying tax with a purchase. I wouldn’t mind paying taxes because the government would benefit a lot from revenue like that but because of the change issue, I think that would be a nightmare. And it’s not like it could be enforced anyway, with the majority of Benin’s businesses being street side or marketplace vendors without licenses to sell anything. Finally, when the vendors aren’t trying to take your money, they are significantly nicer and more polite than the majority of cashiers you’d find in Canada. They always take out a bit of time to chat and I just find that buying stuff here is much more memorable because of that interaction.
When all is said and done, after I put this post up at the cyber I’ll probably stop someone carrying a tray of pineapples on their head, pay them 50 FCFA (or about 10 cents Canadian) and watch as they peel the pineapple for me so I can eat it fresh, holding it like corn on the cob. Now that’s customer service you can’t get at Tim Hortons.
raj You have pointed out one of the major differences between the West and poor countries. In the West most people are always hustling and just expect quick customer service. In a more relaxed and slow paced country, like Benin, people have the time and patience to interact with their customers. I also have personally loved the customer service received in countries that are not like the West.
As for the money issue, it is always so easy to lose perspective and become frustrated with people when you are being cheated. Although, it is not right to cheat others, it may be easier to keep in mind that some people are simply just poor.