The Gate of No Return

Posted by Gaurav On Friday, May 20, 2011 5 comments
           Yesterday started with my first French lesson. It was just me and the teacher for 2 straight hours, which was the upside. The flipside was that the teacher is not fluent in English, so he couldn’t provide much help translating words I didn’t understand. However, he’s a great guy. It went well.

After the lessons it was laundry time! My first time hand washing clothes (hockey equipment doesn’t count) in at least 10 years... and it showed. My host mama soon took over and I was relegated to rinsing and hanging the clothes on the line.

The day really took off however, when Jules and Jennifer dropped by.
Along with Prince (who also just happens to be my French teacher), we took off for an afternoon of tourism.

We visited the Python Temple, which I have included pictures of below, then the beach about 10 minutes from Ouidah at the shore of the Atlantic Ocean, and the highlight of our trip: The Gate of No Return.

The Gate of No Return is not an ancient ruin. It was built in 1995 by the Beninois government, along with the help of UNESCO. So what’s so special about it? Well, a few centuries ago, Ouidah was one of the capitals of slave trading in Africa. The slaves were sold in a market, as tomatoes and mangos are sold in the same market today. They were then forced to walk – shackled – about 5km to the port from which they would board a ship set for the Americas. The Gate of No Return symbolizes the location of this long gone port.

However, visiting this place today, you would have no idea of its morbid history. The clear blue sea stretches as far as you can see, from end to end of your peripheral vision. Palm trees that scatter the beach calmly sway in the gentle breeze created by the waves crashing in on shore. It is serene. Since nature has eroded the physical evidence, it is only fitting that a monument was built here to symbolize one of the darkest moments in the history of human civilization.

Standing there, below the arches of this mighty gate lead me to contemplate how this sinister reminder might apply to my life back home in Canada, and I came to the following conclusion: things can always be worse. How many times had I experienced intense regret about something that I did, and uttered the phrase, “Well, now there’s no going back”? Was there really no going back, or was I just too ashamed to do it?

This gate is the penultimate symbol of a lack of freedom. It was impossible for the slaves to return to the land that was once their home, the home of their ancestors, and the home of their cultures and traditions once they had boarded those ships. They simply had no say, no choice. It is an important lesson: even when an action or choice is difficult for us, and may even seem impossible, we need to step back and see if it really is impossible or if our minds are just holding us back.

Yes, mending wounded ties with someone might be difficult, especially if you are not at fault, but it is always possible. No, it’s not easy to swallow that D on your midterm in calculus, but you still have an opportunity to raise it. Finally, it’s not easy to come into a foreign country where you don’t speak the language and do your best to contribute a little to its development, but I must do what I can.  

We have the freedom to choose. If you find yourself in a difficult situation today, pick the right path even if it is the most tumultuous, knowing that you made the decision of your own will. It is not a privilege everyone been fortunate enough to own.

Entrance to the Temple of Pythons, a centre of Voodoo worship

The religion of Vodun (Voodoo) has its origins in Ouidah. This hut inside the temple is an example of a place where rituals are performed by the Vodun priests. Voodoo has been portrayed by popular culture as a creative method to harm others, but this is rarely the case in reality, where Voodoo rituals are carried out for the betterment of the people and community.

Me (literally) embracing the culture. They starve these pythons for 2 weeks at a time, and then let them out at 3 in the morning to feed before taking them in again. These were 2 of at least 20 pythons in the grand chamber of the temple.

The empty beach just south of Ouidah stretches on for miles in both directions.

Some fishermen from Ghana had arrived ashore with a stockpile of fish. They throw away the jellyfish because they are not eaten here, and I took the opportunity to touch a jellyfish for the first time in my life. Maybe the last time!

The fish are ready for sale after they have been sorted into piles.
Jenny, Jules, and I sitting on the steps approaching The Gate of No Return.
The Gate of No Return
A couple hundred years ago, this view would look out onto a busy sea port created for the sole purpose of exporting West African slaves. Now it shows nothing but the sky and Atlantic Ocean, both meeting where the horizon disappears in the distance.

5 comments to The Gate of No Return

  1. says:

    Anonymous nice shirt

  1. says:

    Raj Hey Gaurav, I just had a chance to read all your blogs today. Excellent work! I feel like you are learning sometime new every day. You are quite wild, touching that jellyfish! But hey...then again..you are on an adventure.

    Remember drink lots and lots of water and when you think you have had enough...then drink some more.

    I cannot wait to read more blogs and photos!

  1. says:

    Anonymous I just finished reading most of your posts and its great to see all your new experiences, and how much you're learning from them. And like Raj said, keep drinking plenty of water.
    Stay safe

    - Priya

  1. says:

    Zaman Hey Gaurav! It's so nice to see you taking initiative in the global community and playing your part in making the world a better place. I am so proud of you! I see you're learning from your experiences and I look forward to hearing more about your travels. Perhaps, you should turn this blog into a novel? I would definitely consider it!Anyways, keep up the great work buddy! Heal the world man, make it a better place, for you and for me and the entire human race (no pun intended). I'll be seeing you soon!

    -Zaman

    P.S. We never know the worth of water till the well is dry. In other words, keep drinking;)

  1. says:

    Anonymous Amazing story! Your blog is really engaging, thanks for sharing your genuine experiences, thoughts and feelings. You, Jenny and other volunteers are truly extraordinary people, I'm 1000% sure your contribution in Benin is tremendous... and you also helped someone like me deciding to follow your example and go for a month volunteer in Benin! I'm super proud of you all!! Keep up the awesome work! Emese

Post a Comment